Create-Along: Why the #$%!@?! Yarn Restrictions?

I probably should have written about this in my initial CAL post, but the fact is that I am so annoyingly verbose when it comes to things like this that if I had, no one would have ever gotten around to reading the explanation. Instead, I'm giving the topic it's own post, so I can be as wordy as I please. Feel free to skip this if you are not creating-along!

The madness does have purpose, and it was a choice on my part, which I stand by even though I have about seven designs that I'm playing around with now and only one of them is in one of the create-along yarns.

Purpose the First:* One of my favorite recent knitting books is Norah Gaughan's Knitting Nature. Gaughan talks extensively in the book about how she is more creative when she has a limitation, and in each of the six parts she introduces the pieces, both individually and as a group, by writing about each limitation - a shape found commonly in nature. This device wasn't invented by Gaughan. If you ever took a high school art or writing class you were probably asked to do the same thing: "Here is a theme that everyone has to work with, see what you can do with it."

I think most of us creative types chafe at these restrictions initially, but it is absolutely fascinating to see what different people do with the same limitation. It really forces you to start to think outside of the box and it gives an insight as to the perspectives and visions of others. I actually find that the first time I work with a theme it is difficult, but that during the process I come up with all kinds of ideas for working with the theme in the future. Sometimes we have to create that first idea in order to be able to move past it. A yarn limitation gives everyone a starting point (and in this case a choice of five starting points), but it's much less restrictive than suggesting that we all attempt to design around the concept of phyllotaxis. Agreed?

Purpose the Second: Yarn is a big part of design, and the way that a particular yarn behaves can make or break a piece. One of the hardest things to figure out as a new knitter or a new designer is how a particular yarn is going to affect the final garment. The second scarf that I ever made was an eyelet pattern in thick, chunky wool. Now if you are intending to break the rules and use big needles to make an over-sized modern scarf that is one thing, but I was fully expecting a lacy, drapey piece that conveyed elegance. My tweedy wool scarf with occasional holes did not achieve that goal. With many people using the same yarn, there can be significant discussion about its characteristics, and we can all learn more about the limits of certain fabrics. The particular yarns we chose are all yarns that Marnie and I have worked with before and have on hand. I chose the Premiere and Cotton Classic, she picked the Calmer and Denim, and we threw in the Kidsilk Haze because it's something we both have that can work in spring weather. Although I know it's ass cold in most parts this time of year, most of us will finish our projects in spring or summer, so it made sense to work with a warm-weather array of fibers.

I feel that our knowledge of these fibers is important for several reasons. First, we have yarn available to design something in each of the yarn selections during the course of the create-along. This will keep us active in the blogging process and in the process of helping other -alongers. We're also sure to have an example of at least one project made in each yarn. As we design there will inevitably be tips we remember that are yarn-specific. Working with each one keeps us present in the process. Second, we already know what these yarns are capable of, and can help guide create-alongers in their process if they are struggling with the materials. Third, and this is important to me, we know these yarns will wear well over all and that the quality of the create-along projects will not be compromised if you use them. It would devastate me if someone designed something for the first time and it looked terrible after only a few wearings. Although some of these yarns are more resilient than others, they are all reliable and you should be able to get significant use out of them.

Purpose the Third: Whenever you design a piece, you will come up against some type of limitation, and usually you will have several. It may be what yarn you have in your stash, the amount of yarn in a certain dyelot, or a specific color or set of colors. If you go on to design for publication, or if you have already designed for publication, you will find/have found that even more limitations are placed on you. In fact, unless you design for a specific yarn company or yarn in particular it will be pretty common for the publishers to look at your design concept and pick yarn and colors for you. Boy, oh boy, is that fun! (I'm not a fan of this convention, as you can see.)

Given this nearly universal propensity for limitations on design, I thought we could use it as a unifying principle. I think knitalongs work best when there is a common theme. I didn't want to go with choosing a specific type of project to design, because I wanted to attract knitters from a variety of skill levels in both design and knitting. I'm hoping that through this process we can take some of the mystery out of design and make it more accessible to everyone. Not all knitters will be interested, but I'd love it if those who are interested would be less intimidated. I feel that if you can start out with more simplistic shaping more people will join. I also think that the common theme of a few yarns can be cohesively repeated. If this is a success, we can do it again with fall yarns, and attract a different set of knitters.

*I've been reading too much Thomas Hardy. This is how he labels the parts of Tess of the D'Urbervilles. Anyone remember that book from school?

Photos, from top to bottom: River in Kidsilk Haze; Citrus Moon in Pima Tencel (same fiber content as Premiere); Thelma in Rowan Denim; Birch in Kidsilk Haze; Tea Set in Cotton Classic; and Marnie's Deciduous in Calmer.

Honeymoon: The Alternate Version

The Citrus Moon is another fun variation on Honeymoon in Knitty. It’s a little simpler than the first version with a shorter, clingier fit and simple ribbing. The armscyes on this version are V’s, making the front and back V’s and the armscyes identical. This creates a tighter fit in the arms than the original, so if you’re particularly ample, Honeymoon might be a better bet. The straps on this version are wider, making it easier to get a bra with straps underneath. The final difference is the stripes – loud, colorful and fun. This is the dressed down version of the cami, for play days on the beach.

SIZE TO FIT
I’ve tried to be helpful by including ten sizes for you to choose from. The sizing is based on a standard difference of approximately 4 inches between the bust and waist measurement. I realize that some people are going to be bustier, or have smaller waists, etc. Choose the size that is closest to your measurements below. For ideas on how to tailor the camisole to be closer to your personal measurements, please check out my Honeymoon FAQs post and talk to the helpful folks on the Knitty Board. The ladies over there have experience with knit to fit for the chesty lass (not me!).

To fit bust: 31[31.5,32.5,34,35,35.5,36.5,38,39,39.5] inches
To fit waist: 26.5[27.5,28,30,30.5,31.5,32, 33.5, 34.5, 35.5] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 29[29.5, 30.5, 32, 33, 33.5,34.5, 36, 37, 37.5]
Waist: 25.5[26.5, 27, 29, 29.5, 30.5, 31, 33, 33.5, 34.5]
Length(not including straps): 16[16,16.5,17,17,18,18,18.5,19,19] inches

MATERIALS
Cascade Pima Tencel [50% pima cotton, 50% tencel; 109 yd per 50g skein]; colors: Orange(3183) 2[3,3,3,3,3,3,4,4,4] skeins; Red (7478) Purple (2493), Green (4084) 1[1,1,2,2,2,2,2,2,2] skeins each. I used the leftovers from my Anouk baby dress, but there are many good substitutes out there. Go to my Honeymoon FAQs post for a list of yarns that other knitters have used.

COLOR SEQUENCE
The camisole can be made in a single color for simplicity, or in any striping pattern that you like. Yarn amounts are listed for the striping pattern that I used, so if you use a solid color or only two colors, you will need less yardage. (I leave that estimation to you!) To make your cami like mine, use the orange for the bottom ribbing and then *work 4 rounds in orange, 2 rounds in purple, 3 rounds in red, 2 rounds in green*. Repeat this sequence throughout the work.

WORKED IN THE ROUND:
1 set 24 inch US5/3.75mm circular needles
1 set 24 inch US6/4mm circular needles
1 set US6/4mm straight needles
optional: 1 set US 6/4mm double pointed needles (for straps)

Notions:
4 stitch markers, 2 in one color and 2 in a second color
2-4 stitch holders
1-2 safety pins

GAUGE
20 sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on larger needles

DEFINITIONS

Rdec= make a left-slanting decrease on the right side of the work using the ssk method – slip 2 sts from the left to right needle knitwise and then knit the two slipped sts together through the back loops.
Ldec= make a right-slanting decrease on the left side of the work by knitting 1 stitch, returning it to the left needle, passing the second stitch on the left needle over the returned stitch, and finally returning the first stitch to the right needle (w/o twisting it or knitting it again).
RRI= make a right raised increase. Reach the tip of the right needle around on the farside and insert it up under the purl nub below the first stitch on the left needle. Lift this stitch onto the left needle tip without twisting. Now knit the new stitch you created by lifting the purl nub.
LRI= make a left raised increase by knitting the stitch above the one that you will use to increase. Insert the tip of the left needle under the second purl nub below the stitch that you just knitted and pull up onto the left needle. Knit this new stitch created by the purl nub from the farside (if you knit it from the nearside it will twist and look wrong).

BODY
Using US5/3.75mm circular needles, CO 140[145,150,155,160,165,170,175,180,185] sts. Join knitting and place marker at the beginning of the first round – this will mark the left armhole of the camisole. *k3, p2* to end of round. Repeat this round for a total of 11[11,13,13,13,15,15,15,17,17] rounds.

***Note: as designed, the camisole hits right at the waist, so if you’re wearing low riders you will be showing belly. To avoid this (as I do by avoiding low riders!) add a few extra rounds to either the ribbing or the unshaped portion directly following the set-up rows, or both.***

Main Body:
Set-Up Round: Switch to US6/4mm circular needles and work in Stst, either increasing or decreasing sts as directed for your size: 0[-1,-2,1,0,-1,-2,1,0,1] sts evenly across the round. 140[144, 148, 156, 160, 164, 168, 176, 180, 184] sts remain.
Next Round: k70[72,74,78,80,82,84,88,90,92] sts, place the right armhole marker(this should be the same color as the left armhole marker already on the needles), k to end of round. Continue to work in Stst for 4 more rounds.

Shape Waist:
Begin decreasing at each side of the camisole to create waist shaping:

*k1, Rdec, k to last 3 sts before second marker, Ldec, k2 (one st on either side of the right armhole marker, Rdec, knit to last 3 sts in the round, Ldec*.

Decrease 4 sts total each round (one on each side of each marker) every 7th round, 3 times total. After the decreases you should have 128[132,136,144,148,152,156,164,168,172] sts on your needles. Work 13[13,13,15,15,15,15,17,17,17] rounds even in Stst without shaping.

Shape Bust:
Begin increasing at each side to create bust shaping:

*k1,RRI, k to the last st before second armhole marker, LRI, k2 (one st on either side of second marker) RRI, k to last st, LRI.*

Increase 4 sts each round (one on each side of each marker) every 5th round, 4 times. After the increases you should have 144[148,152,160,164,168,172,180,184,188] sts on your needles. Work even in Stst without shaping for 30[30,32,32,32,34,34,36,36,36] rounds.

Shape V-Neck and Back:
Begin V-shaping at neck, back and arms: 36[37,38,40,41,42,43,45,46,47], place contrasting marker to mark center front V, knit 72[74,76,80,82,84,86,90,92,94] place final contrasting marker to mark center back V, knit 36[37,38,40,41,42,43,45,46,47] to end of round.

Begin V-neck, back and arm decreases: k1, Ldec, k to 3 sts before marker, Rdec, k1 (you are now at the marker). Divide the work, and begin using straight needles to work the segment that you just knit, leaving the other three segments on the circular needles. Purl back across the work. On the next (RS) row k1, Ldec, k to 3 sts before marker, Rdec, k1. Repeat these two rows until only 6 sts remain on your needles. Place 6 remaining live stitches on a stitch holder. Repeat for remaining three segments.

After all four segments are done, try camisole on to estimate strap length. Somewhere between 2.5 and 4 inches (depending on size) should be right. Most likely, they will be shorter than you’d guess. Make them shorter, rather than longer for a nice close fit. Work in stockinette, making a strap on each segment that is half the total length that you estimate you will need. When complete, use a three-needle bind-ff on the wrong side to complete.

FINISHING
Weave in loose ends and block as necessary, according to the instructions on your yarn’s ball band.

COPYRIGHT 2004, Julia P. Trice This pattern is protected by copyright and available for personal use only. It is not available for sale or distribution without the author's express permission.