Last Minute Giftie

I used to be pretty good about offering the occasional freebie pattern - especially at Christmas. The last few years the freebies have been harder to fit in, mostly because it takes time to write out patterns in intelligible terms. By the time I have time, I'm already on to something else. When Ann showed such a keen interest in obtaining my dad's vest pattern for her knitting circle, I decided it would be a nice opportunity to slip in a little freebie before 2007 comes to a close. So while Moxie was cheering on the Patriots, I was happily pattern drafting. Voila!

The vest is written for a 44" shirt size, with tips for re-sizing. It's a quickie, so please read over the pattern carefully for errors before proceeding. If you spot an error, please let me know. We'll revise as we go along. Happy New Year! xox, J

Southern Snowfall: Pattern Notes

Sometimes I get sick of seeing myself on this blog all the time. I love taking pictures and it is really refreshing to have a chance to share photos of someone else. This particular photo session was a real treat, because my dear friend and knitting compatriot, Hope, is an elusive subject. She said, and I quote, "I trust you to choose the right photos to post."

Southern Snowfall romping among the lovely yarns at Knit Cafe

This choosing of the photographs is a tough job. I did my best and picked shots that I like, but I know that Hope will probably be critical of how she looks regardless. When I choose photos I do my best to capture the nature of the subject. I liked these because they were either happy and engaging or a little contemplative. If you know Hope you will see that hint of nervousness at having her picture taken flitting across her eyes. These aren't perfect, but I think they capture a little of her very special spirit. Just in case she doesn't like them, though, I've tossed in a little bonus to even out the playing field. This is one of my favorite pics of myself, but it is goofy as all hell, and not one that you could call attractive. I'm guessing Hope will appreciate the effort. And now, without further ado, pattern notes for Southern Snowfall:

Southern Snowfall Scarf
MindofWinter QuickKnits
Knit with two skeins (150 yards/137m/skein) of Blue Sky Alpaca's Dyed Cotton (100% Organic Cotton) in color 614 "Drift", on size US8 Addi Turbo Circulars. I didn't take a gauge because this is a scarf, but 22 sts gave me a width of about 5 inches.
Size: 5 inches by about 6.5 feet - this is approximate, b/c I didn't measure the scarf before I gave it to Hope, but it was long.

Detail of the "right" side - I like the wrong side as well.The Pattern
This was the winter, spring, and early summer of the rectangle for me. Prior to this year I had knit two scarves in about 12 years. Between January of 2005 and February of 2006, I knit three. And the only thing I've finished since then is the River Stole - yet another rectangle. All of these scarves are in complicated-looking patterns and luscious yarns, so it makes for a very nice collection. Though rectangles aren't normally that exciting for me, these really allowed me to knit through a time when I simply couldn't concentrate.

Southern Snowfall came about when Hope generously gave me a skein of dyed cotton to swatch with to see if it would work for a design I had in mind. It didn't work for what I was planning, so I decided to play around a bit. When I hit upon this stitch pattern, I knew I had something that I liked. I just kept going, and made Hope a scarf for Valentine's Day.

It's named Southern Snowfall because it looks like a dusting of snow in the south, with the ground peeking through. It's also southern because the scarf is made of cotton, rather than wool. I think it would be gorgeous in a bulky alpaca single like Plymouth Baby Alpaca Grande or Misti Alpaca Chunky.

To make it, you simply cast on 22 sts and repeat these two rows:

Row 1: (RS) K3, *YO, sl1, K1, psso, K2; rep from * to last 3 sts, YO, sl1, K1, psso, K1.

Row 2: (WS) P3, *YO, P2tog, P2; rep from * to last 3 sts, YO, P2tog, P1.

I am a little obsessed with using every last bit of the yarn. With scarves, I knit an entire skein to see how much length I can get out of it. Once I've started knitting with the final skein, I cut the fringe from the outside end of the skein, and just knit to the bitter end. I never have more than 4-6 inches of yarn left.

Here's a tip for fringe: my standard fringe is three 12-inch strands of yarn per tassel, which means each tassel takes one yard of fiber. This makes a lush fringe and is an easy way to calculate the yardage needed for the fringe as well. In this case, I had 10 tassels at each end of the scarf, so I used a total of 20 yards of yarn, or a sixth of a skein. Neat trick, eh?

If you try it with alpaca, or a loosely spun wool, you might want to use bigger needles - I think the drape would be just lovely. The pattern has a repeat of 4+2, so you can cast on any multiple of 4 and then add 2 sts to get exactly the width that you want for the fiber you choose to work with. It would be pretty in fine yarn as well. Kidsilk could be yummy.

Still on the needles - you can see the reverse side well here.
Impressions of Blue Sky Dyed Cotton:
Organic cotton always has a slightly odd, papery feel for me on the needles. It is very lovely, and very organic-feeling, but there is an adjustment period. It's a grabby fiber, so I like using Addis to handle it. For a cotton, it behaves like a wool, in the sense that it seems lighter and less drapey than most cottons. It doesn't have memory or resilience like a wool, though. It gives a lovely result, and produces a unique fabric. I use it when I want a very natural, casual look. This particular line comes in really great colors. At the Knit Cafe we use it for baby items a lot - it makes beautiful blankets - but be forewarned that it is not machine washable. It has fabulous yardage, which makes it more of a bargain than the price tag indicates.

Possible substitute yarns:
I know that there are other organic cottons out there, but I can't think of a good substitute with the same fiber content and properties. Pachuko Organic Cotton is less soft, and has greater stitch definition, so although it's lovely in its own right, it is not truly a "substitute". Perhaps my commenters will have ideas. I assume there's probably a smaller regional company that produces organic cotton. If you know of a regional farm that makes something similar, please let me know below.

This Year's Ornament

I really enjoyed making little sweater ornaments last year, but this holiday season, as I've spent the days leading up to the holidays in the great outdoors, I found a different inspiration for some knitted decorations.

Between the beautiful ginko trees in the yard where I'm staying with friends, the lace knitting that I've done recently, and my current interest in knitting with wire, I was inspired to play around and create some lace leaf ornaments.

The concept is simple. You just take a repeat of your favorite traditional lace pattern, and knit it with a strand of mohair. I used a fine kid mohair silk blend for the white leaves and a thicker wool mohair blend for the colored leaves.

The silver leaf with beads is simply the same pattern without the yarn, using a thicker silver wire. Mine was 26 guage sterling.

I'm copyrighting the recipe, since I think it's such a cool concept that I'd like to keep the credit for it, but I think it would be really cool to see what other lace patterns people could come up with to knit this way. I've had snowflakes on the brain as well (check out the really cool links), and I'd love to see a snowflake version if anyone comes up with one.

White Lace Leaf Ornament
Julia Trice, copyright 2005

Materials:

Small amount of lace weight mohair (I used Art Fibers' Tsuki, but Karabella's laceweight mohair and Rowan's kidsilk haze would give the same effect)

Spool of 36 gauge metal wire (available at beading supply shops for about 99 cents)

Size US7-US10 wooden needles

Wire cutters to cut ends

Precaution:

When working with wire it is always advisable to wear safety googles to prevent sharp ends from injuring your eyes. When your leaf is complete, carefully tuck in any sharp ends that might protrude and keep out of reach of children.

Instructions:

With yarn and wire held together, cast on 3 sts using the backward loop method.
Row 1: k3
Row 2: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1
Row 3 and all odd rows through row 11: purl
Row 4: k2, yo, k1, yo, k2
Row 6: k3, yo, k1, yo, k3
Row 8: ssk, k5, k2tog
Row 10: ssk, k3, k2tog
Row 12: ssk, k1, k2tog
Row 13: sl1, p2tog, psso, fasten off.

Freebie: Sprout Hat

You gotta love the pompom! Click here to see the set.

Happy Green Sprout Hat
MindofWinter QuickKnits, designed by Julia Trice
Yarn: Just over 1 skein (98 yards/90 meters/skein) of Karabella Aurora 8(100% Merino) in Parsley (716) If you do a less fluffy pompom you may get away with 1 skein, but no promises!
Needles: Clover Bamboo DPNs in size US6 (4.0mm)
Gauge: 4.5 sts per inch in moss stitch.
Size: About 14 inches in diameter, to fit newborn to 3-6 months, depending on the infant.

Note/Disclaimer: I designed the Sprout Hat to go with Veronik Avery's Gansey Layette, which is in a very different gauge. To make the two as a set, you will either have to re-gauge my pattern or hers. I'd re-gauge mine!

Using DPN's, CO 64 sts, place marker to mark rounds if needed. Work 6 rounds in 2x2 ribbing as follows: *k2, p2* to end every round. Next round, dec as follows: *k14, k2tog* to end. 60 sts remain. Purl two rounds. On next round begin moss stitch pattern:

Round 1: *k1, p1* to end.
Round 2: *k1, p1* to end.
Round 3: *p1, k1* to end.
Round 4: *p1, k1* to end.

Repeat these four rounds until hat measures 5.25 inches from beginning, ending after either round 2 or round 4. Purl two rounds.

Begin decreases as follows:

Round 1: *k10, k2tog* to end.
Round 2: Knit
Round 3: *k9, k2tog* to end.
Round 4: Knit
Round 5: *k8, k2tog* to end.
Round 6: Knit
Round 7: *k7, k2tog* to end.
Round 8: Knit
Round 9: *k6, k2tog* to end.
Round 10: Knit
Round 11: *k5, k2tog* to end.
Round 12: *k4, k2tog* to end.
Round 13: *k3, k2tog* to end.
Round 14: *k2, k2tog* to end.
Round 15: *k1, k2tog* to end.
Round 16: *k2tog* to end.

Leaving an eight-inch tail, cut yarn, and using a darning needle thread through the remaining live stitches. Pull live sts off needle and thread through a second time to strengthen. Weave in ends on the reverse side.

Make a pompom about 2.5-3 inches in diameter and fasten to top of hat. I used this pom pom maker, but for years before I acquired it, I made my own "maker" like this.

For notes on the yarn and accompanying sweater, see this post.

COPYRIGHT 2005, Julia P. Trice This pattern is protected by copyright and available for personal use only. It is not available for sale or distribution without the author's express permission.

Freebie: BMG's Footies

Two posts in a week! Three posts in a month! You people must be ready to fall over. As a reward for your patience I offer these fun, funny-colored footies. Go forth. Make little socks that Bob Marley's Grandma would be proud to call her own.

Want a more descriptive photo?

BOB MARLEY’S GRANDMA’S FOOTIES

To Fit: Shoe size 5-6[7-8,9-10]. Photographed in size 7-8.

Materials:
2 skeins Koigu Painter’s Palette Premium Merino (KPPM) (100% washable Merino Wool), 170 yards/skein. You will have plenty of leftovers.

Size US2 (2.75mm) double-pointed needles, set of 5, or size to make gauge. Pattern knit on 4 needles, with 5th spare needle used to pick up gussets.

Stitch marker to mark round (optional)
Darning needle to weave in ends

Gauge:
14 sts per 2” in stockinette stitch on US2 (2.75mm) needles or size to make gauge.

CUFF
CO 44[48,52]sts, and distribute sts onto three needles as follows:

Needle one (N1) (half of back of sock): 11[12,13]sts,
Needle two (N2) (top of sock ): 22[24,26]sts,
Needle three (N3) (half of back of sock), 11[12,13]sts.

Join work and pm to mark round, if desired. Begin working in k1p1 rib as follows: *k1, p1* to end. Repeat for 8 rounds. Next round begin working in stockinette. Knit 5 rounds total.

HEEL FLAP
On the next round, using N3, knit sts from N1, so that all of the sts are on only two needles, with N3 (back) containing 22[24,26]sts and N2 (front) containing 22[24,26]sts. For the rest of the heel flap, you will work only with the stitches on N3, working back and forth. Begin by flipping the work around and slipping the first st, then purling across the row. On the next row, slip the first st, then *k1, slip one with yarn in back* to last st, k1. Repeat these two rows 11[12,13] times, for a total of 24[26,28] heel rows.

SHORT ROW HEEL
Still working back and forth, on the next row, sl1, k12[13,14], k2tog, k1, turn work, leaving remaining sts on left-hand needle. Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn work leaving remaining sts on left-hand needle. Continue in this manner, knitting and/or purling one more stitch on each row as follows:

Sl1, k6, k2tog, k1, turn work
Sl1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn work
Sl1, k8, k2tog, k1, turn work
Sl1, p9, p2tog, p1, turn work
Sl1, k10, k2tog, k1, turn work
Sl1, p11, p2tog, p1, turn work

GUSSETS
Resume working in the round. Knit sts from N3 onto spare needle, then knit the remaining sts onto N1, so that the sts are once again distributed onto three needles. Using N1 pick up and knit 12[13,14] sts along the heel flap. Knit the 22[24,26]sts from N2. Using N3, pick up and knit 12[13,14]sts from the heel flap and then knit remaining sts from spare needle onto N3.

Work one round even, and then dec on the next round as follows:
N1: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
N2: knit
N3: k1, ssk, knit to end.

Repeat these two rounds (one round without shaping, one dec round) until total stitch count is 44[48,52]sts, with 11[12,13]sts on N1, 22[24,26]sts on N2, and 11[12,13]sts on N3.

Work even until foot measures 6.5[7.0, 7.5] inches.

TOES
On the next round, begin toe decreases as follows:

N1: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
N2: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
N3: k1, ssk, knit to end.

Repeat this dec round every other round until 20[22,24] sts total remain. Then work dec round every round until 12 sts remain. Using N3, work sts from N1 even, so that all sts are once again on two needles. Kitchener live toe sts together, and weave in loose ends to finish.

COPYRIGHT 2005, Julia P. Trice This pattern is protected by copyright and available for personal use only. It is not available for sale or distribution without the author's express permission.

More On Asana

A few people have asked me about Asana's construction, and specifically what it's going to look like as you're working on it. I'm no expert with schematic software, but it will look something like this:

You start knitting from the bottom, and work the bottom and top wraps as one piece with the main body. The waist wraps are knit as seperate strips and then seamed onto the body during finishing. The top and bottom wraps are identical in length, with the waist wrap being a bit shorter, since your waist is significantly smaller in circumference than your bust or hips. (All of this gives the illusion that the straps are of equal length when the piece is worn.)

When wearing the piece, you'll have the right side of each wrap wrapped all the way over to the left side of your back and the left sides wrapped over the top of the right sides. This will give you a substantial portion of overlap - most of the back, depending on your personal measurements, of course.

Divide the velcro into equal portions for each of the tabs. I'd recommend using at least two 2-inch vertical strips (one at each edge) for each wrap. When you get to the point of sewing on the velcro, it will all be a lot more obvious. Just be sure to plan out the placement of the velcro and make sure it works prior to sewing it on!

Asana can be, and in fact, was, worn with a bra. It's not really suited to a bra with straps, but it will easily cover a honkin' big strapless. The upper wrap is bigger to cover the ladies, and if you have any doubts, just check your gauge on the lower wrap. You can always start the upper strap a little early and make it extra thick if you have "special needs".

For those of you looking for a little company while knitting your Asana, Ms. NoNoKitty has kindly started a knitalong here, which will lift off on May 9th. I will also be hosting at least one knitalong night in early June with my LYS for those of you knitting Asana in the DC area. More on those details as we get closer to the date.

Time to Stretch Your Horizons

Run [!!!] over to Knitty and see what's new!

Honeymoon: The Alternate Version

The Citrus Moon is another fun variation on Honeymoon in Knitty. It’s a little simpler than the first version with a shorter, clingier fit and simple ribbing. The armscyes on this version are V’s, making the front and back V’s and the armscyes identical. This creates a tighter fit in the arms than the original, so if you’re particularly ample, Honeymoon might be a better bet. The straps on this version are wider, making it easier to get a bra with straps underneath. The final difference is the stripes – loud, colorful and fun. This is the dressed down version of the cami, for play days on the beach.

SIZE TO FIT
I’ve tried to be helpful by including ten sizes for you to choose from. The sizing is based on a standard difference of approximately 4 inches between the bust and waist measurement. I realize that some people are going to be bustier, or have smaller waists, etc. Choose the size that is closest to your measurements below. For ideas on how to tailor the camisole to be closer to your personal measurements, please check out my Honeymoon FAQs post and talk to the helpful folks on the Knitty Board. The ladies over there have experience with knit to fit for the chesty lass (not me!).

To fit bust: 31[31.5,32.5,34,35,35.5,36.5,38,39,39.5] inches
To fit waist: 26.5[27.5,28,30,30.5,31.5,32, 33.5, 34.5, 35.5] inches

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 29[29.5, 30.5, 32, 33, 33.5,34.5, 36, 37, 37.5]
Waist: 25.5[26.5, 27, 29, 29.5, 30.5, 31, 33, 33.5, 34.5]
Length(not including straps): 16[16,16.5,17,17,18,18,18.5,19,19] inches

MATERIALS
Cascade Pima Tencel [50% pima cotton, 50% tencel; 109 yd per 50g skein]; colors: Orange(3183) 2[3,3,3,3,3,3,4,4,4] skeins; Red (7478) Purple (2493), Green (4084) 1[1,1,2,2,2,2,2,2,2] skeins each. I used the leftovers from my Anouk baby dress, but there are many good substitutes out there. Go to my Honeymoon FAQs post for a list of yarns that other knitters have used.

COLOR SEQUENCE
The camisole can be made in a single color for simplicity, or in any striping pattern that you like. Yarn amounts are listed for the striping pattern that I used, so if you use a solid color or only two colors, you will need less yardage. (I leave that estimation to you!) To make your cami like mine, use the orange for the bottom ribbing and then *work 4 rounds in orange, 2 rounds in purple, 3 rounds in red, 2 rounds in green*. Repeat this sequence throughout the work.

WORKED IN THE ROUND:
1 set 24 inch US5/3.75mm circular needles
1 set 24 inch US6/4mm circular needles
1 set US6/4mm straight needles
optional: 1 set US 6/4mm double pointed needles (for straps)

Notions:
4 stitch markers, 2 in one color and 2 in a second color
2-4 stitch holders
1-2 safety pins

GAUGE
20 sts/28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on larger needles

DEFINITIONS

Rdec= make a left-slanting decrease on the right side of the work using the ssk method – slip 2 sts from the left to right needle knitwise and then knit the two slipped sts together through the back loops.
Ldec= make a right-slanting decrease on the left side of the work by knitting 1 stitch, returning it to the left needle, passing the second stitch on the left needle over the returned stitch, and finally returning the first stitch to the right needle (w/o twisting it or knitting it again).
RRI= make a right raised increase. Reach the tip of the right needle around on the farside and insert it up under the purl nub below the first stitch on the left needle. Lift this stitch onto the left needle tip without twisting. Now knit the new stitch you created by lifting the purl nub.
LRI= make a left raised increase by knitting the stitch above the one that you will use to increase. Insert the tip of the left needle under the second purl nub below the stitch that you just knitted and pull up onto the left needle. Knit this new stitch created by the purl nub from the farside (if you knit it from the nearside it will twist and look wrong).

BODY
Using US5/3.75mm circular needles, CO 140[145,150,155,160,165,170,175,180,185] sts. Join knitting and place marker at the beginning of the first round – this will mark the left armhole of the camisole. *k3, p2* to end of round. Repeat this round for a total of 11[11,13,13,13,15,15,15,17,17] rounds.

***Note: as designed, the camisole hits right at the waist, so if you’re wearing low riders you will be showing belly. To avoid this (as I do by avoiding low riders!) add a few extra rounds to either the ribbing or the unshaped portion directly following the set-up rows, or both.***

Main Body:
Set-Up Round: Switch to US6/4mm circular needles and work in Stst, either increasing or decreasing sts as directed for your size: 0[-1,-2,1,0,-1,-2,1,0,1] sts evenly across the round. 140[144, 148, 156, 160, 164, 168, 176, 180, 184] sts remain.
Next Round: k70[72,74,78,80,82,84,88,90,92] sts, place the right armhole marker(this should be the same color as the left armhole marker already on the needles), k to end of round. Continue to work in Stst for 4 more rounds.

Shape Waist:
Begin decreasing at each side of the camisole to create waist shaping:

*k1, Rdec, k to last 3 sts before second marker, Ldec, k2 (one st on either side of the right armhole marker, Rdec, knit to last 3 sts in the round, Ldec*.

Decrease 4 sts total each round (one on each side of each marker) every 7th round, 3 times total. After the decreases you should have 128[132,136,144,148,152,156,164,168,172] sts on your needles. Work 13[13,13,15,15,15,15,17,17,17] rounds even in Stst without shaping.

Shape Bust:
Begin increasing at each side to create bust shaping:

*k1,RRI, k to the last st before second armhole marker, LRI, k2 (one st on either side of second marker) RRI, k to last st, LRI.*

Increase 4 sts each round (one on each side of each marker) every 5th round, 4 times. After the increases you should have 144[148,152,160,164,168,172,180,184,188] sts on your needles. Work even in Stst without shaping for 30[30,32,32,32,34,34,36,36,36] rounds.

Shape V-Neck and Back:
Begin V-shaping at neck, back and arms: 36[37,38,40,41,42,43,45,46,47], place contrasting marker to mark center front V, knit 72[74,76,80,82,84,86,90,92,94] place final contrasting marker to mark center back V, knit 36[37,38,40,41,42,43,45,46,47] to end of round.

Begin V-neck, back and arm decreases: k1, Ldec, k to 3 sts before marker, Rdec, k1 (you are now at the marker). Divide the work, and begin using straight needles to work the segment that you just knit, leaving the other three segments on the circular needles. Purl back across the work. On the next (RS) row k1, Ldec, k to 3 sts before marker, Rdec, k1. Repeat these two rows until only 6 sts remain on your needles. Place 6 remaining live stitches on a stitch holder. Repeat for remaining three segments.

After all four segments are done, try camisole on to estimate strap length. Somewhere between 2.5 and 4 inches (depending on size) should be right. Most likely, they will be shorter than you’d guess. Make them shorter, rather than longer for a nice close fit. Work in stockinette, making a strap on each segment that is half the total length that you estimate you will need. When complete, use a three-needle bind-ff on the wrong side to complete.

FINISHING
Weave in loose ends and block as necessary, according to the instructions on your yarn’s ball band.

COPYRIGHT 2004, Julia P. Trice This pattern is protected by copyright and available for personal use only. It is not available for sale or distribution without the author's express permission.

Wallace: Pattern & Notes

Wallace
MindofWinter QuickKnits
Knit with 2 skeins (98 yards/skein) of Karabella Camissimo (50%Merino/32%Baby Camel/18%Polymide), in Camel (18109) on Addi Turbo Circulars in size US10 (6.0 mm), in a guage of 14.25 sts per 4 inches over pattern.

Finished Dimensions:
Approximately 20 inches wide and 10 inches high.

The Pattern:
As a preliminary matter, I don't recommend that you substitute yarns for this version of the pattern. If you're up to charting decreases, then cool, go for it. If not, please stick to Camissimo or at the very least to something equally fluffy and fuzzy.

This hat is knit flat, so you can either use circs, like I did, or go with straight needles. The 20" size here fits my 22" head. If your head is a different size, knock off or add three sts for every inch of difference and adjust the shaping accordingly.

Stitch Pattern:
Row 1: k1, *sl1 wyfwd, k3, sl1 wyfwd* to last stitch, k1
Row 2: *k3, sl1 wyfwd* to last 3 sts, k3

CO 72 sts and work in patt for 8 inches. On the next right side row begin decreasing.

**Note: If you follow this method of decreasing, at some point you'll have to give up working in pattern and revert to garter stitch. This is what I did and it looks perfectly fine with this fuzzy, fluffy yarn. However, if you are a perfectionist or if you substitute yarns, I would highly recommend taking the time to chart out the decreases so that they fall in the "troughs" of the ribbed pattern.**

First Decrease Row: *k8, k2tog* to last st, k1
Work one row in patt.
Second Decrease Row: *k7, k2tog* to last st, k1
Work one row in patt.
Third Decrease Row: *k6, k2tog* to last st, k1
Work one row in patt.
Fourth Decrease Row: *k5, k2tog* to last st, k1
Work one row in patt.
Fifth Decrease Row: *k4, k2tog* to last st, k1
Work one row in patt.
Sixth Decrease Row: *k3, k2tog* to last st, k1
Seventh Decrease Row: *k2, k2tog* to last st, k1
Eighth Decrease Row: *k1, k2tog* to last st, k1
From here k2tog all sts on every row until you have about 6-8 sts left.

At this point, cut the yarn leaving a six inch tail, then weave the tail through the remaining live sts and secure. Seam up the side of the hat. If you'd like, make yourself an outrageously big pom pom. If that is not your thing, Wallace looks great as a watch cap as well.

COPYRIGHT 2005, Julia P. Trice This pattern is protected by copyright and available for personal use only. It is not available for sale or distribution without the author's express permission.

Impressions of Karabella Camissimo:
I detest working with this yarn. It is one of those fluffy novelty-esque monstrosities with a threadlike yarn for a base and tons of puffs surrounding it. It gets matted up in itself easily and is hell on the hands. BUT. And this is a big but, requiring full caps - it gives a great result. It is interesting to me that the Chevron Scarf, which I so loved making and which I think is very, very beautiful gets accidentally left behind every few days, but Wallace, which was not nearly as enjoyable during the "creative process" is taken out daily and worn with great relish. I really love this hat and consequently, I have to give props to the yarn that made it possible. Because honestly, this hat is very little more than great feeling fluffy fabric, a cool stitch pattern and a helluva pom pom.

Other things to like about the yarn? It is very soft and much less itchy than most wools, so it makes an excellent hat. It's also made with camel hair, which I think is pretty neat. I have quite a bit of my second skein left and will probably pick these leftovers up next year to make a coordinating cowl. It's a yarn I'd use again, just in small quantities, spaced out over time. This is probably for the best anyway, as Camissimo does not come cheap.

Possible substitute yarns:
I'm sure that there are yarns out there that will give a similar fluffy effect, but I haven't seen one with the cool camel content in it around. Let me know if you have, particularly if it isn't as pricey!

More Photos:

Naturally, I had to go outside the second that it snowed and take some goofy pictures in the yard.

Tips for Making Wallace:
The fit on this hat is pretty exact, because it doesn't have the elasticity of a "normal" rib. Make sure you do your head measurement properly, check guage, and then take it off the needles and see if it fits a few inches into the process. It's worth the trouble!